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4 DAY TRIP TO CAZORLA, ÚBEDA. BAEZA AND JAEN - 20th - 23rd April 2009
by Liz and David Lodge
Trip to Cazorla, Úbeda, Baeza and Jaén
We have just returned from our first ever trip with Calpe U3A – leaving on Monday 20 April and returning on Thursday 23rd – visiting Cazorla, Úbeda, Baeza and Jaén.
Day One: Leaving Calpe looking rather dismal with grey skies we drove through more changeable weather (grey skies/sunny/grey skies) for many hours to our destination – Hotel Montaña at Arroya Frio in the heart of the Sierra de Cazorla, Segura y las Villas Natural Park. Our driver, José, made easy work of the narrow roads and hair pin bends, which at times caused many a sharp intake of breath! The superb drive through the park allowed us chance to see the most amazing scenery, including the green waters of the dam which seemed to go on and on, miles of woodland and even one or two rabbits and some deer. During the evening meal we were treated to the sound of heavy rain and thunder, and to see the occasional flash of lightening.
Day Two: Although disappointed to start off this morning with heavy mist all around (and it was cold), we were delighted to drive high enough to look down on the mist covering our valley and it was as if we were in a plane above the clouds, a spectacular sight! Equally, the drive down the other side of the mountain gave superb views of the olive groves which spread as far as the eye could see – 60 million trees in this area, apparently. In Cazorla we picked up Xavier, our guide for today and tomorrow, and arrived in Úbeda at about mid morning.
After a welcome coffee break we began our exploration of the town, which is a World Heritage Site. Starting from the Plaza de Vázquez de Molina, we had a look around the Ayuntamiento (Palace of the Cadenas) and continued the tour, taking in the Collegiate Church of Santa María de los Reales Alcázares,
The Sacra Capilla del Salvador del Mundo, an interesting house known as the “House of the Wild Man”, which was for sale (no-one offered to buy it!), the Gothic Church of St Paul and finally a look around a family-run pottery and shop.
The coach then took us to the town of Baeza where we first had lunch and then began our tour by way of the “Gate of Jaén”, taking a look at the old slaughterhouse – which is now a music academy and was moved in 1960, stone by stone, from 100m across the road – the Cathedral, the university ‘debating room’ and an old schoolroom, and finally the only Romanesque church in the region.
On the way back to the hotel José kindly stopped at the Mirador “Puerto de las Palomas” where we were lucky enough to see an eagle (possibly a Golden Eagle) close at hand, and now that the mist had cleared we had an excellent view of our hotel down in the valley.
Day Three: Thank goodness the weather had certainly perked up now and we left in glorious sunshine for the 3-hour journey to Jaén, collecting Xavier on the way.
After our usual coffee break we toured the Cathedral and then the Roman Baths, followed by a lazy lunch – everyone seemed well impressed by the cheap prices, good quality and friendly service no matter where they’d gone. We were very glad that the coach then took us up to the Castle, as we hadn’t relished the climb after dining so well! Those in the group who had a head for heights, and who were fit enough for the trek, continued to the site of the cross which was built on a promontory and gave a 360 deg view of the town.
Our return journey continued with more stunning views of the landscape, with snow-covered mountains in the background and another beautiful dam. We nearly lost Del at our afternoon coffee break when he decided he’d have a break from coach travel and hitch a lift instead!
Arriving back at our hotel rooms we were all pleasantly surprised to find a freebie T-shirt from the management (bearing the hotel’s name, address and phone number, a good bit of advertising!).
Day Four: After breakfast and a group photo, we left in more lovely sunshine for our long journey back. At José’s suggestion we drove right around the mountain, a route which offered the most spectacular scenery and well worth the time it took. The landscape became much more flat and the olive groves were replaced by mainly almonds, and here we stopped for a brilliant menu del dia for only 9 Euros!
We arrived home stiff and a bit tired, but it had been a thoroughly enjoyable journey.
We would like to thank Diane and Keith for all their hard work making the trip so interesting and well run. There were no “hiccoughs”, everyone was very friendly and there was a great atmosphere – we were very impressed and are looking forward to our next U3A trip, wherever that may be!
Liz and David Lodge
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